পাওয়ার অব পিপল স্ট্রংগার দেন দি পিপল ইন পাওয়ার। http://mhcairo.blogspot.com/

মূসা ঈব্রাহীম- মূসা ঈব্রাহীম- মূসা ঈব্রাহীম। 'মূসা ঈব্রাহীম' একটি পরিচিত নাম হয়ে গিয়েছে আমাদের বাঙালীদের নিকট। সেই হচ্ছে প্রথম বাঙালী যে কিনা বিশ্বের সর্বোচ্চ শৃংগ মাউন্ট এভারেষ্ট জয় করেছেন। পত্র পত্রিকার শিরুনামে পরিণত হয়েছেন।

ব্লগে লেখার বিষয় হয়েছেন। তাকে নিয়ে অনেক কবিতা রচিত হবে, গল্পও লেখা হবে। দু-ই চারটে নাটক টেলিফিল্ম কিংবা সিনেমাও বানাতে পারে আমাদের দেশের নাট্যকার, সিনেমা পরিচালক গন। কারণ একটাই, সে বিশ্বের বুকে আমাদের নাম উজ্জল করেছে। তাহলে এবার আসুন আরো কিছু মানুষের নাম ঠিকানা ও এভারেষ্ট জয়ের তারিখ জেনে নেই যারা নিজ নিজ দেশের হয়ে, দেশের নাম উজ্জল করেছেন।

-------------------------------------------- A ----- Vitaly Abalakov (1906–1992). Russia. Lenin Peak (1934), Khan Tengri (1936). Yevgeniy Abalakov (1907–1948). Russia. Communism Peak (1933). Ansel Adams - photographer, conservationist. Louis Agassiz (1807–1873) Switzerland/United States. Published seminal work on glaciology in 1840, based on studies in the Alps. Major H.P.S. Ahluwalia - Scaled Mount Everest on 29 May 1965, as a part of the first Indian Everest expedition. Author of "Higher than Everest". Pierre Allain (1904–2000) French alpinist who championed bouldering at Fontainebleau Christian Almer (1826–1898), Swiss. Grindelwald guide; made many first ascents in the Alps, a.o. of the Mönch, Eiger, Fiescherhorn, Barre des Ecrins and Aiguille Verte. Ashraf Aman (1943–) First Pakistani climber to summit K2 Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi (1873–1933). Italy. First ascent of Mount Saint Elias in Alaska/Yukon Pat Ament (born 1946) United States rock climber and pioneer boulderer. Prolific author Conrad Anker (born 1963) United States. Discovered George Mallory's body on Mount Everest in 1999 Melchior Anderegg (1827–1912), Swiss. "King of the mountain guides" from Meiringen, who made many first ascents in the Alps, a.o. of the Dent d'Hérens and Grandes Jorasses and of the Goûter and Brenva routes of the Mont Blanc Armando Aste (1926-) Italy. Mountaineer Dolomites and Patagonia. Leader of the first Italian ascent of the Eiger north face Peter Athans- United States alpinist. Winner of the David A Sowles Award. Everest seven times. Peter Aufschnaiter, (1899–1973) Austria. Mountaineer and co-traveller of Heinrich Harrer (Seven Years in Tibet) =================== B -------- John Bachar (1957–2009) American climber noted for his climbs in Yosemite National Park and his skill in free soloing. John Ball (1818–1889) Irish. Naturalist and Climber, notable for his guides to the Alps. First president of the Alpine Club, founded in 1857. Jacques Balmat (1762–1834) Chamonix based guide. First ascent of Mont Blanc with Jean-Jacques Paccard in 1786. George Band (born 1929) United Kingdom. Everest Expedition 1953, First ascent Kanchenjunga 1955 with Joe Brown. Former President of the Alpine Club and the British Mountaineering Council. Henry Barber (born 1953); leading United States rock climber in the 1970s; advocate of clean climbing ("alpine style"). Lilliane and Maurice Barrard Charles Barrington - British climber. First ascent of the Eiger Richard Bass - United States businessman and amateur mountaineer, first to complete climbs of the Seven Summits (1985). Robert Hicks Bates (1911–2007) United States renowned explorer, alpinist, Peace Corp director and educator, accomplished numerous first ascents in Alaska including the first ascent of Mount Lucania in 1937 with Bradford Washburn. Also noted for his leadership in the 1938 and 1953 American attempts on K2 Mark Beaufoy (1764–1827) early English climber in the Alps, made fourth ascent of Mont Blanc in 1787. Fred Beckey (Friedrich Wolfgang Beckey) (born 1923). Germany/United States. Prolific mountaineer, with many first ascents in the U.S. and Canada. George Irving Bell (1926–2000) United States Physicist, biologist and mountaineer. Masherbrum 1960. One of the five climbers on K2 in 1953 who fell but were saved by Peter Schoening. Josune Bereziartu (born 1972). Basque rock climber; as of 2005[update], she is the only female to have climbed the grade 9a/5.14d Didier Berthod - Swiss climber featuring in "First Ascent" movie by Peter Mortimor. Isabella Bird (1831–1904), British traveller, writer, and natural historian Barry Blanchard (born 1959). Canadian alpinist and mountain guide; first ascents in the St. Elias range of Alaska. Smoke Blanchard (1915–1989). United States mountaineer. Developed the Buttermilk bouldering area. Karl Blodig (1859–1956). Austria mountaineer, optician and journalist; first to have climbed all peaks in The Alps over 4000 metres Arlene Blum (born 1945), mountaineer, first American woman to attempt to ascend Mount Everest Peter Boardman (1950–1982). United Kingdom climber and writer. Everest 1975, Changabang West Wall 1976, Kanchenjunga 1979. Died on Everest N-NE ridge with Joe Tasker in 1982. Walter Bonatti (born 1930). Italian mountaineer and writer. Solo of new route on the south-west face of the Aiguille du Dru in 1955. First winter ascent solo of the north face Matterhorn in 1965. On successful Italian K2 expedition (1954) but did not summit. Sir Chris Bonington (born 1934) United Kingdom mountaineer and writer. First ascents of Central Pillar of Freney (1961), Annapurna II (1960), Nuptse (1961), Central Tower of Paine (1962–3), Changabang (1974), Baintha Brakk (1977). Ascent of Everest (1985). Leader of many Himalayan expeditions, including four to Everest and successful 1970 Annapurna expedition. Knighted in 1996. Thomas George Bonney (1833–1923) United Kingdom. Geologist and mountaineer. Former president of the Alpine Club. Made most of his ascents in the Alps. Alastair Borthwick Climber and author whose book Always a Little Further documented the beginnings of climbing as a working class activity in Scotland. Christine Boskoff (1967–2006) United States Alpinist; first North American woman to summit Lhotse; reached six of the 14 8,000m summits, including Mount Everest twice, most among American women; presumed lost in an avalanche on Genyen Peak in November 2006. Anatoli Boukreev (1958–1997) Russia. Kanchenjunga (first traverse of the four summits) 1989, Dhaulagiri 1991 & 1995, Everest 1991/95/96/97, K2 1993, Makalu 1994, Manaslu 1995, Lhotse 1996/97, Cho Oyu 1996, Shishapangma 1996, Broad Peak 1997, Gasherbrum IV 1997. Died on Annapurna on 25 December 1997. Tom Bourdillon (1924–1956), British. Reconnaissance of Everest 1951, Cho Oyu 1952, British Everest expeditions 1952 and 1953, South Summit of Everest 26 May 1953. David Breashears (born 1956). United States climber. Everest twice. Directed IMAX film Everest. Meta Brevoort (1825–1876). United States alpinist of the Victorian period. Aunt of W. A. B. Coolidge. Russell Brice (1952–). New Zealander, world record holder for the fastest single solo ascent without oxygen of both Cho Oyo and of Ama Dablam, leader of expeditions to the Himalayas. Jim Bridwell - United States rock climber. First one-day ascent of The Nose of El Capitan in 1975. David Brower - Executive Director Sierra Club, aesthetic preservationist, early frequent Sierra and Yosemite climber, 10th Mountain Division WWII. Joe Brown (born 1930). British climber. Rock climbing pioneer who took British climbing to a new level of difficulty, numerous first ascents in the UK. Third ascent West Face of the Dru in 30 hours, Chamonix, French Alps. First ascent West Face of the Blaitere Chamonix. First ascent of Kanchenjunga 1955 with George Band. First ascent Mustagh Tower, Himalayas. Michael Brown[disambiguation needed] (born 1966). American mountaineer and director of more than 25 adventure films. Climbed Everest four times. Jean Buridan (c. 1300–1358) Climbed Mont Ventoux for the view, before Petrarch (below). Hermann Buhl (1924–1957). Austrian climber. First ascent Nanga Parbat (1953), first ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Wintersteller, Schmuck & Diemberger. Died Chogolisa 27 June 1957. Alexander Burgener (1845–1910). Swiss mountain guide. First ascent Zmuttgrat of Matterhorn, Grands Charmoz, Aiguille du Grépon, Lenzspitze, Grand Dru. ====================================== সি ------------ Tommy Caldwell (born 1978) United States. Rock climber. Free climbed the Nose of El Capitan. Una Cameron (1904–1987). United Kingdom. Ascents in Alps, Caucasus and Africa. Louis Ramond de Carbonnières (1755–1827) - French scientist and Pyrenean pioneer. Kim Carrigan. Australia. One of the leading technical rock climbers of the 1980s. Carlos Carsolio. Mexico. 14 8000m summits (1985–1996). Riccardo Cassin (1909–2009). Italy. First ascents of north-east face of Piz Badile (1937); Walker Spur on north face of the Grandes Jorasses (1938); Cassin Ridge on Mount McKinley (1961). Isabella Charlet-Straton (1838–1918). United Kingdom. First ascents in the Alps with Emmeline Lewis-Lloyd. First winter ascent of Mont Blanc (1876) with Jean Charlet, whom she subsequently married. Renata Chlumska (born 1973). Sweden. First Swedish woman to climb Mount Everest (1999). Yvon Chouinard (born 1938). United States. Pioneer of the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing. Advocate of clean climbing. Technical ice climber. Founder of Chouinard Equipment and later Patagonia (clothing). John Clarke (1945–2003). Canada. Explorer, mountaineer, conservationist, and wilderness educator. Over 600 first ascents in the Coast Range of British Columbia Vern Clevenger (1955-) United States. First ascent Cholatse (1982). Numerous first routes ascents in the Sierra Nevada (U.S.) Ian Clough (1939–1970) United Kingdom. First ascent Am Buachaille (1968) with Patey. First British ascent of the North Face of the Eiger in (1962). Killed on Annapurna. Norman Clyde (1886–1972) United States. Pioneer climber of California Sierra Nevada.[1] J. Norman Collie (1859–1942) United Kingdom. First ascent Tower Ridge Ben Nevis. Nanga Parbat expedition 1895. Achille Compagnoni (1914-) Italy. First ascent K2 (1954) with Lacedelli William Martin Conway (1856–1937) United Kingdom. Surveyor, explorer and mountaineer (Karakoram, Spitsbergen, Andes & Alps). Dr Patrick Cordier (1947–1996) First ascent French Direct on Norway's Troll Wall (1967). Solo ascent The Nose, Yosemite (1973). First ascents in Mont Blanc Massif. Kenton Cool (b.1973) United Kingdom. Seven-time Everest summiter. W. A. B. Coolidge (1850–1926) United States. 1,700 expeditions in Alps, Alpine historian. Janne Corax (1967–) Sweden. Adventurer and climber Jean Couzy France. First ascent Makalu (1955) with Terray Aleister Crowley (1875–1947). United Kingdom. Occultist, writer, and a pioneer of British rock climbing. Led early expeditions on K2 and Kanchenjunga. Michel Croz (1830–1865) France. First ascent Grande Casse, Castor, Barre des Écrins, Mont Dolent, Aiguille d'Argentière. Died on descent after first ascent of the Matterhorn (1865). Anna Czerwińska (born 1949). Poland. Oldest woman to summit Mount Everest (at the time) at the age of 50, first Polish woman to climb Seven Summits. =========================== D ------ Steph Davis, American, second woman to free climb El Capitan in one day Johnny Dawes (1964-) United Kingdom. Rock climber, introduced 2 new grades in the British grading system for traditional climbs. José Antonio Delgado (1965–2006) Venezuela. Five 8000m summits (1994–2006). Died descending Nanga Parbat 22 July 2006. Clinton Thomas Dent (1850–1912) United Kingdom. Caucasus, Alps, first ascent of Lenzspitze (1870), Aiguille du Dru (1878). Ardito Desio (1897–2001) Italy. Geologist and Mountaineer. Leader of K2 first ascent expedition in 1954. Kurt Diemberger (born 1932) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Wintersteller, Schmuck & Buhl. First ascent Dhaulagiri (1960) with Diener, Forrer, Schelbert, Nyima Dorji & Nawang Dorji. K2 (1986). Hans Christian Doseth (1958–1984) Norway. Sports climber and mountaineer. Climbed east face Great Trango Tower (1984) with Finn Dæhli. Summited, but both killed during descent. Lord Francis Douglas (1847–1865). Scottish alpinist. Died on descent after first ascent of the Matterhorn. Hans Dülfer (1892–1915) Leading German rock climber who died during World War I. John Dunne (1968–) Established Parthian Shot (1990: E9, 7a). Other notable first ascents include Total Eclipse (9a) Malham, Divided Years (E10, 7a) Mourne Mountains. Günther Dyhrenfurth (1886–1975) Swiss. Mountaineer and Himalayan explorer. Led German expeditions to Kanchenjunga in 1930 and 1931.[2] [edit] E Oscar Eckenstein (1859–1921) - Alpinist, rock climber and boulderer Charles Evans (born 1912) - Alps, Wales, leader of Kanchenjunga first ascent expedition Jens Esmark (1763–1839), Norwegian mountaineer. First ascent of Snøhetta (1798) and Mount Gaustatoppen. Led first expedition to Bitihorn. John Ewbank (1948–) One of the 'grandfathers' of Australian rock climbing. Invented the Australian (Ewbank) grading system. ======================================== F ------------- Freda du Faur (1882–1935), Australian, first female ascent of Mount Cook Sue Fear (1963–2006), Australian, Cho Oyu 1998, Shishapangma 2002, Everest 2003, Gasherbrum II 2004; killed in crevasse fall on descent from Manaslu Rudolf Fehrmann (1886–1947), German pioneer rock climber in Elbsandsteingebirge Darby Field (1610–1649), first European to climb Mount Washington (New Hampshire) in 1642 George Ingle Finch (1888–1970), Australian pioneer of oxygen use, to 27,300 ft on 1922 Everest expedition; first ascent of 'Finch Route' on north face of Dent d'Hérens Scott Fischer (1955–1996), American, Lhotse 1990, K2 1992, Everest 1994; died on descent from Everest in the storm of 11 May 1996 Hans Florine (born 1964), American speed climber, world record holder (most notable is 2008 ascent of "The Nose" on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park in 2:37:05 along with Yuji Hirayama James David Forbes (1809–1868), first British ascent of Jungfrau Charlie Fowler (1954–2006), American free solo rock climber and high-altitude mountaineer Mick Fowler (born 1956), British technical climber, winner of the Piolet D'Or 2003 [3] Douglas Freshfield (1845–1934), Alps, Scotland, Himalaya, Pyrenees Tom Frost (born ?), American rock climber, first ascents of big walls in Yosemite Valley ============================================= G --------------------- Will Gadd - Canadian. Responsible for various hard mixed routes including the first M12. João Garcia, first Portuguese to climb Mount Everest and all 8000m plus summits between 1993 and 2010. All without supplementary oxygen or Sherpas. Rolando Garibotti (born 1971 Italy, living in the United States) Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and the Cerro Torre Traverse. Lester Germer (1896–1971). United States physicist, World War I fighter pilot and rock climber. Konrad von Gesner (1516–1565) Switzerland. Naturalist Early mountaineer in the Alps. John Gill (born 1937) United States. Father of modern bouldering. Introduced chalk & modern dynamics in 1950s. Stefan Glowacz - professional rock climber Dan Goodwin (1955 - ) United States - rock climber/building climber, gained fame as climber of skyscrapers in 1980's including World Trade Center, Sears Tower, John Hancock Center, and CN Tower; internationally known advocate for high-rise firefighting and rescue. Dave Graham (born 1981) Maine Professional rock climber and leading boulderer. Tormod Granheim (born 1974) Norway. Professional climber and extreme skier made the 1.st ski descent of Everest North Face 2006. William Spotswood Green (1847–1919) - New Zealand, Selkirks Paul Grohmann (1838–1908) Austria. First ascents include the four highest peaks in the Dolomites (e.g. Marmolada (1864)), as well as the Hochfeiler (1865), Langkofel (1869), and Große Zinne/Cima Grande di Lavaredo (1869) Wolfgang Güllich (1960–1992). Germany. Celebrated rock climber & boulderer. First 5.14d - Action Directe (1991). Paul Güssfeldt (1840–1920) German geologist and explorer. First ascent of Peuterey ridge and Piz Scerscen. First European attempt on Aconcagua in 1883. Veikka Gustafsson (born 1968) Finnish. All 8000m plus summits between 1993 and 2009. All without supplementary oxygen. [edit] H Peter Habeler (1942–) Austria. First ascent without supplementary oxygen Mount Everest (1978) with Reinhold Messner. Douglas Robert Hadow (1846–1865). English climber killed on first ascent of Matterhorn. Hayatullah Khan Durrani Pakistani Mountain and Rock-Climber Pioneer of Caving Adventure Sports in Pakistan and Juniper Defender. Dave Hahn, American with 11 Mt. Everest summits, 26 Vinson Massif summits, 19 Mount McKinley summits. Lincoln Hall Australia. Everest. Rescued in 2006 after being 'left for dead' overnight at 8700m on descent from the summit of Everest. Rob Hall (1960–1996) New Zealand. Seven Summits in seven months with Gary Ball (1990). Died in the 1996 Everest Disaster on 11 May 1996. Peter Harding Prominent British climber of the 1940s Warren J Harding - first ascent of El Capitan Alison Hargreaves (1963–1995) United Kingdom. First female unassisted Everest (1995), died on descent from K2 summit John Harlin (1934–1966) United States. Direct route pioneer. Killed on the north face of the Eiger. Heinrich Harrer (1912–2006) Austria. First ascent North Face Eiger (1938). First ascent Carstensz Pyramid (1962). Author of Seven Years in Tibet. Ginette Harrison (1958–1999) United Kingdom. 7 Summits (1983–1993). First female ascent Kangchenjunga (1998). Killed in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri. Dougal Haston (1940–1977) United Kingdom. First ascent South Face Annapurna (1970) with Don Whillans. Killed in an avalanche in the Alps. Elizabeth Hawkins-Whitshed (1860–1934), British pioneer of mountaineering, photographer of mountain scenery, and author Siegfried Herford (1891–1914) - British rock climber. Central Buttress, Scafell, (1914) Maurice Herzog (born 1919) France. First ascent leader first 8,000 meter peak - Annapurna (1950). French Minister for Sport and Lord Mayor of Chamonix. Tom Higgins (1944- ) First and first free ascents in United States; also in France outside Chamonix.[4] Lynn Hill (born 1961) United States. First free ascent The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite (1993). Edmund Hillary (1919–2008) NZ. First ascent Mount Everest (1953) with Tenzing Norgay. Alan Hinkes OBE (born 1954) United Kingdom. 14 8000m summits. Yuji Hirayama (born 1969). difficult onsight. World Champion 1998, 2000. Marty Hoey (died 1982), killed by an unsecured harness on Mount Everest Charles F. Hoffmann (1838–1913) United States. Surveyor and mountaineer. Several first ascents in the Sierra Nevada. Jim Holloway (1954-). United States boulderer. Perhaps first to achieve V11+ levels. Tom Hornbein anesthesiologist, Boulder Area Rockies and PNW climber; Everest West Ridge with Willi Unsoeld. Steve House Solo ascent of K7 in 2004 (nominated for Piolet d'Or), first ascent of the Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat with Vince Anderson in 2005 (won Piolet d'Or) Charles Houston (born 1913) First ascent of Mt Foraker Alaska in 1934 and leader of attempts on K2 in 1938 and 1953. Alexander and Thomas Huber - German climbers and mountaineers. Free ascents in Yosemite, speed record on El Capitan, expeditions and free solos Charles Hudson (1828–1865) United Kingdom. First ascent Monte Rosa (1855). First ascent Matterhorn (1865). Died on descent. Tomaž Humar (1969–2009). Slovenia. Extreme climber. Piolet d'Or in 1996 for a new route on the East Face of Ama Dablam. Solo ascent of the south wall of Dhaulagiri. Alexander von Humboldt - Chimborazo John Hunt (1910–1998) United Kingdom. Leader 1953 Everest expedition. [edit] I Marcel Ichac France. Member (cineast of the first French expedition in Himalaya (Karakoram, 1936) and of the second (Annapurna, 1950). One of the greatest mountain film maker of his time. Ulrich Inderbinen (1900–2004). Swiss guide. 371 Matterhorn ascents, last at age 90. Andrew Irvine (1902–1924). United Kingdom. Died on Everest at approximately 8500m with George Mallory on 8 June 1924. R. L. G. Irving (1877–1969). United Kingdom. Alpine pedagogue and author. [edit] J John Jackson United Kingdom. First ascent of Jackson's Route Narendra Dhar Jayal. a.k. 'Nandu' Jayal. Pioneering mountaineer of India and first Director of Himalayan Institute of Mountaineering, Darjeeling. [edit] K Conrad Kain (1883–1934), Austria/Canada. Over 50 first ascents in the Canadian rockies, amongst which Mount Robson. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 1970), Austria. Most (11) 8000m peaks by a woman.[5] Harish Kapadia- born 1945 India One of the most distinguished Himalayan Mountaineers Bob Kamps (1931–2005) - United States rock climber. Pioneer of golden age of Yosemite climbing and 5.10 & 5.11 routes in America. Fritz Kasparek (1910–1954) - Austria. First ascent of the Eiger north face. Ron Kauk United States rock climber. Many first ascents in Yosemite. Stunt work for Hollywood climbing movies. Subject of several rock climbing movies. Dora Keen (1871–1963), American Alpinist Pat Kelly (died 1922), British rock climber and founder of the Pinnacle Club E. S. Kennedy (1817–1898) United Kingdom. First ascent Monte Disgrazia, Mont Blanc du Tacul Clarence King (1842–1901) - United States geologist and climber, first director of the USGS, first ascent of Mount Tyndall, Peter Kinloch, (born 17 July 1981 - Scotland), mountaineer and ice climber. Andy Kirkpatrick, British rock and ice climber and motivational speaker. Colin Kirkus (1910–1942)- United Kingdom rock climber and alpinist Christian Klucker (1853–1928). Swiss guide, prolific first ascentionist in the Bernina Range and the Bregaglia. M.S. Kohli - Leader of successful 1965 Indian expedition to Mount Everest. Layton Kor - United States rock climber and mountaineer. Author of Beyond the Vertical. Dai Koyamada (born 1976) - Japanese Sport climber and boulderer Jon Krakauer (born 1954) - United States non-fiction author and mountaineer. Authoured Eiger Dreams and Into the Wild. Hans Kraus (1905–1995) - Born Austria, emigrated to United States, pioneering rock climber and one of the fathers of sports medicine and physical medicine and rehabilitation Göran Kropp (1966–2002) - rode his bike from Sweden, soloed Everest without Oxygen and rode home. Julius Kugy (1858–1944), Austria-Slovenia. Considered the father of modern mountaineering in the Julian Alps Jerzy Kukuczka (1948–1989) - Polish climber, the second man to climb all 8000m peaks. Wojciech Kurtyka (born 1947) - Polish climber, pioneer of alpine style in high mountains. Toni Kurz (1913–1936). German climber who attempted Eiger north face in 1936. Died tragically during the retreat. [edit] L Louis Lachenal (1921–1955). France. First ascent of Annapurna 1950, with Maurice Herzog. Died in a crevasse fall, while skiing in Chamonix 25 November 1955. Jean-Christophe Lafaille (1965–2006). France. 11 8000m plus summits, all without auxiliary oxygen. Missing at 7,600 m on Makalu, 26 January 2006. Raymond Lambert (1914–1997). Switzerland. Member of the Swiss Mount Everest 1952 expedition. Reached 8611m with Tenzing Norgay, the highest point at that time. Samantha Larson (born 1988) United States. Youngest person to have completed the Seven Summits, at age 19 in 2007. Philip Ling. Australia. High-altitude mountaineer. Pete Livesey (1943–1998). United Kingdom. Influential rock climber in the 1970s. John Long (born 1953). United States. Rock climber and writer. Author of the How to Rock Climb series. Li Zhixin (born 1962). First Chinese couple to climb the "Seven Summits" with Wang Yongfeng. Erhard Loretan (born 1959). Switzerland. 14 8000m plus summits (1982–1995). Alex Lowe (1958–1999). United States. Great Trango Tower, Rakekniven - Antarctica & Sail Peak - Baffin Island. Killed in an avalanche on Shishapangma. Fritz Luchsinger. (1921–1983). Switzerland. First ascent of Lhotse (1956). [edit] M Tim Macartney-Snape (1956 - ) Australia. Everest (1984). First to walk & climb from Sea Level to the summit of Everest (1990). Dave MacLeod - Scottish climber and all rounder. Established world's first E11. George Mallory (1886–1924) United Kingdom, 1921,1922,1924 United Kingdom expeditions to Everest. Died on Everest at 8000+ metres June 8/9 1924. Marie Marvingt (1875–1963) France. Between 1903 and 1910 she became the first woman to climb most of the peaks in the French and Swiss Alps. William Mathews (1828–1901) United Kingdom. Founder of Alpine Club. First ascent a.o. of Monte Viso, Grande Casse. Chantal Mauduit (1964–1998) France. Shisha Pangma (1993), Cho Oyu (1993), Lhotse (1996), Manaslu (1996), Gasherbrum II (1997). Killed by avalanche on Dhaulagiri, 16 May 1998 Eylem Elif Maviş (born 1973), first Turkish woman to climb Mount Everest (2006) Pierre Mazeaud (born 1929). France. Walter Bonatti climbing partner. First Frenchman to climb Mt Everest (1978). Daniel Mazur United States. Everest, Lhotse, K2, Gasherbrum I and Makalu. Steve McClure - first Brit to climb 9a twice Duncan McDuffie - summits in the Sierra Nevada (U.S.) Richard "Dick" McGowan (1933–2007) - first American to set foot on Mt. Everest, as part of the International Himalayan Expedition of 1955. Ammon McNeely – (born 1970) United States Professional climber with many noteworthy first one day ascents and speed records on El Capitan, Yosemite and Zion big walls Alain Mesili (born 1949) France. Fitz Roy (1970) with Ricardo Arzela. Pioneered routes in Bolivia. Reinhold Messner (1944 – ) Italy. First to climb all 14 eight-thousander peaks (1970–1986). First ascent without supplementary oxygen Everest (1978) with Peter Habeler. First solo Everest (1980). Jean-Christian Michel - first ascents of Tawesche with Yannick Seigneur (1973) John Middendorf (born 1959) United States. Big wall rock climber. First ascent East Wall Great Trango Tower (1992) with Xaver Bongard. Gwen Moffat - British female climber, author of Space Below My Feet (1961) Ben Moon - United Kingdom sport climber and boulderer, established the world's first F8C+ A. W. Moore (1841–1887) United Kingdom. First ascent Fiescherhorn, Barre des Écrins, Piz Roseg, Ober Gabelhorn Simon Moore - Irish big wall climber and boulderer. First Irish person to climb E9. Fritz Moravec (1922–1997) Austria. First ascent of Gasherbrum II (1956) with Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart. Nea Morin (1905–1986), rock climber and mountain climber Simone Moro 1967–) Italy. Winner of the David A Sowles Award 2002 for the rescue of Tom Moore on Lhotse. Lhotse 1994, Shishpangma 1996, Everest 2002 & 2000, Cho Oyu 2002. Patrick Morrow - Canadian mountaineer, first to finish both the Bass and Messner lists of Seven Summits (1986) Tomáš Mrázek - professional Czech rock climber, World Champion 2003, 2005; winner of the World Cup 2004 John Muir (1838–1914) United States. Conservationist and mountaineer. Summits in California and Alaska Norrie Muir (1948 – ) Scottish climber and prolific first ascentionist Albert F. Mummery (1855–1895) United Kingdom. Alpine and 8,000er pioneer, killed on Nanga Parbat. Don Munday (1890–1950) - - Canadian mountaineer, and explorer, husband of Phyllis Munday, explored the region around Mount Waddington Phyllis Munday (1894–1990) - Canadian mountaineer and explorer. Explored the region around Mount Waddington. [edit] N Yasuko Namba - {1949–1996} Japan, second Japanese woman to complete the Seven Summits. Oldest at 47, to summit Mount Everest on May 10, 1996. Died on descent at South Col. Nazir Sabir - Pakistan Most famous mountaineer from Pakistan Fred Nicole - Switzerland rock climber, notable for his numerous first ascents of cutting edge sport routes and boulder problems. Tenzing Norgay (1914–1986) Sherpa. First ascent Mount Everest (1953) with Edmund Hillary. Edward Felix Norton (1884–1954) - leader of 1924 Everest expedition with Mallory and Irvine Wilfrid Noyce. United Kingdom. (1917–1962). On British 1953 Everest expedition, reached South Col. Killed in Pamirs. Arne Næss (1912–2009). Norwegian philosopher and mountaineer. Led the expedition that made the first ascent of Tirich Mir in 1950. Arne Næss jr. (1937–2004). Leader of 1985 Norwegian Everest expedition [edit] O Cathy O'Dowd South African First woman in the world to climb Everest from both north and south sides (1999). Fourth woman in the world to climb Lhotse, the world's fourth highest mountain (2000). Juan Oiarzabal (born 1956). All eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen. Record 21 ascents of eight-thousanders. Adam Ondra (born 1993) youngest climber to climb 5.14d Dan Osman - United States, famous for dangerous solos. Killed whilst attempting his new sport of rope jumping. James Outram - Canada, first ascent of Mount Assiniboine [edit] P Michel-Gabriel Paccard. France. First ascent of Mont Blanc (1786) Bachendri Pal (born 1954), first Indian woman (and fifth woman ever) to scale Mount Everest Marie Paradis. France. First woman to ascend Mont Blanc, 1809 Young-seok Park South Korea. First grand slam of mountaineering in 2005 Elizabeth Parker (1856–1944), Canadian journalist and mountaineer Edurne Pasaban (born 1973). Spain. Eleven 8,000 m peaks. One of only three women alive that have climbed K2. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (1961–1993), first Nepali woman to summit Everest; died in descent 1993 Tom Patey (1932–1970) Scotland. First ascent Muztagh Tower 1956. First ascent Am Buachaille 1968. Killed in abseilling accident. Author of One Man's Mountains Julius Payer (1841–1915). Czech-Austrian polar explorer who made many first ascents in the Adamello and Ortler mountains in the 1860s. Annie Smith Peck (1850–1935), American mountaineer William Penhall (1858–1882). England. First ascent west face of the Matterhorn. Jim Perrin (born 1947). Over 200 notable first/free ascents in Britain. Winner of the Boardman Tasker prize for mountain literature. Oliver Perry-Smith (1884–1969). United States. Rock climber active in Saxon Switzerland and the Dolomites before World War I Petrarch (1304–1374), Italy. Climbed, with his brother, Mont Ventoux on 26 April 1336. . Elfrida Pigou (1911–1960), Canadian female climber, discovered crash site of Trans-Canada Air Lines Flight 810, died on Mount Waddington Burçak Özoğlu Poçan (born 1970), climbed over 8,000 m along with her team mate Eylem Elif Maviş as the first Turkish female mountaineers in 2005 Klára Poláčková, first Czech woman to summit Everest. Dean Potter United States. Innovated fast free climbing style; speed soloed El Cap in 4:17; speed soloed El Cap and Half Dome in one day. Paul Preuss (1886–1913) Austria. Early promoter of free climbing. Climbed 1200 peaks in his short life. Hristo Prodanov (1943–1984) Bulgaria. Lhotse unassisted 1981. Died on descent from unassisted climb of Everest in 1984. Bonnie Prudden (born 1914). Pioneering United States rock climber and exercise advocate. 30 documented first ascents in the Gunks. Karl Prusik. Austria. Introduced the widely used Prusik knot. Ramón Julián Puigblanque (born 1981) Spain. Rock climber Ludwig Purtscheller, first ascent of Kilimanjaro in 1889 [edit] Q Honey singh [edit] R Lisa Rands, American rock climber and boulderer Michael Reardon (1974–2007), American freesoloist and film producer Dave Rearick (born 1934), American rock climber, first ascent of the Diamond on Longs Peak (1960) Gaston Rébuffat (1921–1985), French, 1950 Annapurna expedition, first to climb all six great north faces of the Alps, Alpine guide and author Ernst Reiss (born 1920), Swiss, first ascent of Lhotse (1956) Dorothy Pilley Richards (1894–1986), British climber, wrote "Climbing Days" (1935) Katharine Richardson (1854–1927), British mountaineer in the Alps in 1880s Leni Riefenstahl (1902–2003), German actress and mountaineer Rick Ridgeway (Born 1950- ) American author, filmmaker, photographer, member of the first American team to summit K2[6]. honored with National Geographic’s “Lifetime Achievement in Adventure” award [7]. Ang Rita (born 1948), Sherpa, climbed Mount Everest ten times without supplemental oxygen Alain Robert (born 1962), French climber and builderer David Roberts, author, first ascents of Wickersham Wall (Mount McKinley) and other Alaskan peaks Royal Robbins (born 1935), American rock climber, pioneer of modern Yosemite climbing in 1950s Paul Robinson, American rock climber, one of the best boulderers in the world André Roch (1906–2002), Swiss, Everest 1952 attempt, many first ascents in Alps and Asia Beth Rodden (born 1980), American rock climber Steve Roper - guidebook writer, Editor of Ascent. Fred Rouhling, (born 1970) French rock climber, notable for 1995 proposal of grade 9b (5.15b) for his unrepeated climb Akira Galen Rowell (1940–2002), American photographer and mountaineer, first one-day ascents of Denali and Kilimanjaro, first ascent Great Trango Tower Henry Russell (1834–1909), prolific French first ascentionist in the Pyrenees Wanda Rutkiewicz (1943–1992), Polish, 8000m-peak veteran, died attempting Kanchenjunga [edit] S John Salathe (1900–1993) -born Switzerland emigrated United States, pioneering Yosemite National Park rock climber and inventor of the modern piton. Horace-Bénédict de Saussure (1740–1799) France. Third ascent of Mont Blanc (1787), funded first ascent Marcus Schmuck (1925–2005) Austria. First ascent Broad Peak (1957) with Buhl, Diemberger and Wintersteller. First ascent Skil Brum (7360m) (1957) with Wintersteller. Peter Schoening (1927–2004) United States. First ascent Gasherbrum I (1958) with Kauffman. First ascent Vinson Massif (1966) in Antarctica. Saved five fellow climbers on K2 in 1953.[8] Doug Scott (born 1941) United Kingdom. Seven Summits. Everest (SW Face) 1975 with Haston, Baintha Brakk (descent with two broken ankles) 1977, Kangchenjunga 1979, Nuptse 1979. Former President of the Alpine Club. Vittorio Sella (1859–1943)- Italian mountaineer and early photographs Chris Sharma (born 1981) United States. Award winning rock climber. Featured in several rock climbing movies. John Sherman (born 1959) - United States preeminent helmeted toproper, mining shill and author, inventor of "V" grading system. Pemba Dorjie Sherpa, fastest ascent of Mount Everest, 23 May 2003 Eric Shipton (1907–1977) United Kingdom. First ascent Kamet (1931) with Smythe, Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa. Pioneered route across the Khumbu Glacier with Tilman in 1951. William Shockley (1910–1989) - Nobel Prize winning physicist, proponent of eugenics. First ascent of Shockleys Ceiling in the Gunks (1953) Joe Simpson (born 1960) United Kingdom. Notably survived a fall and being left for dead on Siula Grande Touching the Void. Todd Skinner (1958–2006) - United States rock climber. Many first ascents, including first free ascent of the Salathe Wall in Yosemite National Park. Died descending Leaning Tower in Yosemite. Cecilie Skog (born 1974) The first female mountaineer to climb all the Seven summits and both poles. She has also reached Mount Everest (2004) and K2 (2008). Laurie Skreslet (born 1949) Canada. Everest (1982) William Cecil Slingsby (1849–1929) United Kingdom. First ascent Store Skagastølstind (1876). Pioneer of Norwegian mountaineering. Frank Smythe (1900–1949) First ascent Kamet (1931) with Shipton, R Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa. Reached 8565m on Everest in 1933 without supplementary oxygen.[9] William Grant Stairs (1863–1892) - first non-African to ever climb in the Ruwenzoris Allen Steck (born 1926), American mountaineer and rock climber Leslie Stephen (1832–1904) United Kingdom. Author and alpinist. First ascent Schreckhorn, Monte Disgrazia, Zinalrothorn. Edward Lisle Strutt (1874–1948) United Kingdom. Deputy leader on 1922 Everest expedition. Outspoken Alpine Journal editor, 1927–37. Gottlieb Samuel Studer (1894–1890) Switzerland. First ascent Wildhorn (1843). Founding member of Swiss Alpine Club. [edit] T Junko Tabei (born 1939), Japanese, first woman to summit Everest (1975), first woman to complete both the Bass and Messner lists of Seven Summits (1992) Aleksandra Taistra (born 1982), Polish rock climber, fourth woman in the world to have red pointed 8c Joe Tasker (1948–1982), British; ascents of Dunagiri (mountain) (1976), Kanchenjunga (1979), Changabang West Wall; died with Pete Boardman on Everest (May 1982) Lionel Terray (1921–1965), French; first ascent Makalu (1955) with Jean Couzy; second ascent Eiger North Face (1949) Vladislav Terzyul (1953–2004), Ukrainian climber Kevin Thaw (1967–) British; many first and notable ascents,... Herbert Tichy (1912–1987), Austrian, first ascent Cho Oyu (1954) with Sepp Jochler and Pasang Dawa Lama Bill Tilman (1898–1977), British; Africa, Himalaya, First ascent of Nandadevi. Luis Trenker (1892–1990), mountaineer, film director and writer (born in Austria-Hungary, what is now Italy) Sonnie Trotter (born 1979), Canadian award winning climber, known for hard trad climbing Francis Fox Tuckett (1834–1913), British, first ascent of Aletschhorn (1859) Julie Tullis (1939–1986), British; Broad Peak (1984) and K2 (1986); died on descent from K2 Mark Twight (born 1962), American alpinist, advocate of "Light and Fast" style of mountaineering John Tyndall (1820–1893), British scientist, first ascent of Weisshorn (1861) [edit] U James Ramsey Ullman (1908–1971) United States. Noted author, and mountaineer. Ugur Uluocak (1962–2003) Turkey. Mountaineer, photographer and editor. Died while climbing Mount Alarcha in Kyrgyzstan. Willi Unsoeld (1926–1979) United States. First ascent of the West Ridge of Everest 1963, with Tom Hornbein. Killed in an avalanche on Mount Rainier on 22 May 1979. Karl Unterkircher (1970–2008) Italy. Mountaineer, known for opening new mountain routes. Died on Nanga Parbat. Naomi Uemura (1941–1984) Japanese adventurer, first solo winter ascent of Mount McKinley on which he died. [edit] V Patrick Vallencant (June 9, 1946 - March 28, 1989) France. An alpinist/skier and pioneer in ski mountaineering. Ed Viesturs (born 1959) United States. First United States climber to climb all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks; 6th person to climb them without supplementary oxygen Ludwig Vörg Germany. First ascent of the Eiger. [edit] W Wang Fuzhou (born 1935), first to climb Mount Everest via the north face, first ascent Shishapangma Wang Yongfeng (born 1963), Chinese, the first Chinese couple to climb the Seven Summits with Li Zhixin Mary Vaux Walcott (1860–1940) Horace Walker (1838–1908), British, first ascent of Mount Elbrus, Grandes Jorasses, Barre des Ecrins, Obergabelhorn Lucy Walker (1836–1916), British, first female ascent Matterhorn (1871) Bradford Washburn (1910–2007), lead many expeditions to Alaska, third ascent of Denali and pioneered the West Buttress Route Barbara Washburn, wife of Bradford Washburn, first ascent of Mount Bertha and first woman to climb Denali (1947) Don Whillans (1933–1985), British rock climber, first ascent South Face Annapurna (1970) Rick White (1946–2004), Australian rock climber, developed Frog Buttress (1968) Jim Whittaker (born 1929), first American to climb Mount Everest (1963) Lou Whittaker (born 1929), twin brother of first American to climb Mount Everest, Rainier guide Edward Whymper (1840–1911), British, first ascent Matterhorn (1865), first ascent Chimborazo (1880) Jim Wickwire (born 1940), American, K2 (1978), including an open overnight bivouac near the summit Krzysztof Wielicki (born 1950), Polish mountaineer, first winter ascent of Mount Everest; fifth person to climb all 8000 meter peaks Karl Wien (1906–1937), German mountaineer, leader of the disastrous 1937 expedition to Nanga Parbat Fritz Wiessner (1900–1988), born Dresden, emigrated to United States; pioneer of free climbing; notable 1939 expedition to K2 Walter Wilcox (1869–1949), Canadian Rockies explorer George Willig (born 1949), climbed the South Tower of the World Trade Center Fritz Wintersteller (born 1927), Austrian, first ascent Broad Peak (1957); first ascent Skil Brum (1957) Fanny Bullock Workman (1859–1925) [edit] Y Santosh Yadav (born 1969), Indian Indo-Tibetan Border Policewoman, one of the few women in the world to have climbed Everest twice (1992 & 1993) Simon Yates (born 1963), British, Joe Simpson's partner on their 1985 attempt on the unclimbed west face of Siula Grande, subject of the book Touching the Void Ichiro Yoshizawa (1903–1998), Japanese climber and writer; K2 (1977)[10] Geoffrey Winthrop Young (1876–1958), British writer and mountaineer, former president of Alpine Club and Climbers' Club [edit] Z Matthias Zurbriggen (1856–1917) Swiss. First ascent Aconcagua (1897).
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